Moringa Oleifera is commonly known as the “drumstick tree” because of its drumstick-shaped fruit. Easy to grow in hot and dry climates, the tree needs little water and not much tending to grow rapidly. Although the moringa is drought-resistant and will flower once a year under arid conditions, it will also thrive where there is consistent rainfall and flower more often. The resulting drumstick pods hang off the tree like green icicles. If a pod is not plucked, it will grow thicker and drier, eventually drying up while still on the tree.
Many parts of the moringa tree are edible and have different uses. The green drumsticks are used in South Asian cooking, particularly in curries. For preparation, they need to be peeled, washed, and cut into 10 cm (4-inch) pieces that can be bound in little bundles to prevent them from falling apart in the gravy. The leaves are often added into salads and stir-fries, and are also cooked as a vegetable dish on their own, with added spices or topped with eggs.
Native to India, moringa is eaten in all regions of the country, especially by vegetarians who make up a large percentage of the Indian population. It’s a daily staple in the diet of South Indians, in particular. A Parsi dish, Machi Singh no Patio, is specially prepared in honor of the drumstick (Singh).
Growing up in Karachi, Pakistan, I saw a Moringa Oleifera tree each day that was just outside my bedroom window. Because it grew wild, in a partially shady spot, it was mostly forgotten except for the drumsticks that were served to us now and again. And I did not know that so many nutritious properties were contained in this natural wonder. Full of vitamins, minerals, calcium and fiber, moringa is recommended for help with stomach ailments and to increase lactation for breast-feeding mothers who experience deficiency. Oil, called “Ben oil,” is extracted from the seeds of the drumstick tree and has a wide variety of uses; Ben oil is used for cooking, can be found in commercial skincare products, and is even used in water purification.
Many foods that are staples in one part of the world are unfamiliar in another—ready to be discovered, experimented with, and perhaps adopted. Through trade, migration, and changing eating habits, moringa came to be cultivated in Africa, Latin America, Australia, and even in Southern California, making its way around the globe.
Machi Singh no Patio (Fish and Drumstick Curry)
Ingredients
For the dal (lentils):
- •227 grams (8 ounces) toor dal/split pigeon peas (not oily), rinsed
- •227 grams (8 ounces) masoor dal/red split lentils, rinsed
- •4 ml (¾ teaspoon) turmeric
- •5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
- •113 grams (4 ounces) salted butter
For the fish patia:
- •45 ml (3 tablespoons) vegetable oil
- •2 large onions, finely chopped
- •177 ml (¾ cup) of dried desiccated coconut ground to a paste
- •10 ml (2 teaspoons) ground ginger
- •10 ml (2 teaspoons) ground garlic
- •2 finely chopped green chilies
- •2 whole green chilies
- •5 ml (1 teaspoon) red chili powder
- •12.5 ml (1½ teaspoons) ground cumin powder
- •2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) turmeric powder
- •12.5 ml (1½ teaspoons) salt
- •355 ml (¾ cup) tomato puree
- •2 large tomatoes cut into 3 pieces each
- •2 raw green mangoes peeled and finely chopped or ground
- •177 ml (¾ cup) fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), finely chopped
- •10 scraped moringa drumsticks cut into 10 cm (4-inch) pieces
- •15 ml (1 tablespoon) jaggery (dark brown sugar), or as needed
- •1 pound (500 grams) fresh firm fish like salmon, surmai or cod, haddock or halibut
- •Fresh lemon juice, optional
- •Cooked basmati rice, for serving
Preparation
For the dal (lentils): In a stock pot combine the toor dal, masoor dal, turmeric, salt, and 1 liter (4 cups) of water. Bring to a boil and cook the dal over medium heat for 40 minutes, adding additional water as needed. Add the butter and mash or process the lentils until thickened but still liquid. Set aside and keep warm.
For the fish patia: Heat the oil and fry the onions till golden brown. Add the ground coconut, stirring constantly, until the coconut is very light pink. Immediately add ginger and garlic and cook for 1 minute.
Add chopped chilies, whole chilies, chili powder, cumin, turmeric and salt. Cook for a minute and add the tomato puree, tomatoes, mangoes, and coriander leaves (cilantro). Add the drumsticks and 710 ml (3 cups) water, and bring to a boil. Cover and cook for about 1 hour on a medium flame.
Check the drumsticks are cooked through (easily splitting open) and then add the jaggery, mixing well. Add the fish for the last 15 minutes, removing from heat as soon as it is cooked through. The patia should have a slightly thick consistency, spicy and slightly sweet and sour. Season with more jaggery or a bit of lemon juice if desired. Serve accompanied by dal and basmati rice.
